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More Bavarians.

Through that gutter on the right flows fresh, pure spring water. It seems, though I don't know, to be artesian: every block or so is a trough where this water just wells out of a pipe, and you see people filling cups and bottles in the trough. The water then spills from the troughs into gutters like this one and flows . . . I don't know, somewhere. Probably down to the river.

Everywhere in the Alps, the water is crystal clear. I expected the rivers and lakes to be all played out and dumpy, but for clarity the water rivals the best lakes in Oregon. They are pretty fiercely environmentalist over there: the grocery stores, for instance, don't provide grocery bags. They presume you'll bring your own. (And, after being burned the first time, you certainly do.)

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