Cochem, on the Mosel River, Aug. 5, circa 3 PM Deutschetime. Following a sleepless 9:45hr. flight and a Jaegermeister-swilling 1:30hr. drive,* I find myself scaling the narrow streets of Cochem in the latter minutes of my 22nd waking hour. We are in search of a castle. How cool is that, guys, we're gonna go see a castle! Holy shit! We ain't in Kansas anymore! *Yes, kids, there are no open-container laws in Deutschland.

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